Wednesday, November 01, 2006
Be Careful While Buying Used Furniture
Everyone buys furniture with the hope that it will last for very many years. You would want to get the most worth for your money spent. It is not necessary to always pay more to get good quality furniture that will last for years. For people not willing to or not able to spend too much, used second-hand furniture is a very good option. It keeps the expenditure in check, and if you are careful about checking the quality you are sure to get a good piece of furniture that will serve you well. What you really need to look for is quality craftsmanship. You can mostly rest assured when buying used Amish furniture because the craftsmanship of the Amish is extremely good and the furniture is made such that it can last for generations.
Before you head out to buy any used wood furniture there are a few things you need to think about. Decide your budget. Evaluate the usage conditions that the furniture piece is going to be put through. Children’s room furniture particularly needs to be very strong as it needs to endure rough usage. Amish oak furniture would be a good option for the children’s study table as it is very strong and can endure rough usage. How much you want to spend on the furniture is going to decide where you will need to shop. If your budget is tight, a good option would be to check for second hand good quality furniture stores in the local newspapers. You can also find inexpensive used furniture at auctions or garage sales or through friends.
Time of purchase can make a huge difference to your cost. One of the best times to find great deals on furniture is over the holiday seasons and during the summer. At such times consumers are spending more money on holiday items. They are less likely to purchase furniture, which is why the largest sales happen during this time. Also, during the summer months, consumers are spending less time indoors so they are less likely to find a need to purchase furniture so this is also a good time to find a good deal through your local retailer. Large retail stores always have the furniture piece delivered to your home in a few days. But if you are purchasing a used item from a thrift or second-hand store, an auction or a friend, you most likely need to take the item with you when you leave. You need to be prepared for such a situation. Now the question of quality arises. With a used wooden furniture piece, you might find some scratches or discoloration or other type of marks. You need to see what kind of defects you can deal with and cure easily at home. With a good wood cream you can take almost all scratches and water marks out of the wood. You can sand the furniture down to get a good fresh wood look and then do the refinishing yourself. It is an easy process and most DIY enthusiasts would really enjoy the experience. At times display pieces may be slightly damaged or dirty because of all the touching, feeling and handling by so many people. You could ask for a further discount on such pieces and then clean it up yourself at home and save a bunch of money. If there is a bigger defect and you think you can deal with it, ask for a bigger discount.
Make sure the piece is basically stable and well-made. A badly made furniture piece is going to fall apart sooner than later. If the furniture joints are loose and the piece is wobbly, it will not turn out to be a good buy. Make sure there are no gaps in the joints, the screws are all tight, the drawers and cabinets smooth to open and shut and the piece stands sturdy without shaking.
If you are purchasing a piece of furniture that includes a drawer of any type, look for dovetail joints on the backs and the fronts of the drawers. Dovetail joints are similar to your putting your hands together and locking your fingers. Wood that is joined together in this manner is going to last longer and be sturdier in the end. The wood intermingles with the wood from another piece of the drawer for a solid fit that is sturdy. Amish handcrafted furniture always has the best quality long-lasting joints made by the skilled Amish craftsmen.
So just by keeping these few things in mind, you can buy a good piece of wood furniture while saving yourself a bunch of money. Good Luck!
Before you head out to buy any used wood furniture there are a few things you need to think about. Decide your budget. Evaluate the usage conditions that the furniture piece is going to be put through. Children’s room furniture particularly needs to be very strong as it needs to endure rough usage. Amish oak furniture would be a good option for the children’s study table as it is very strong and can endure rough usage. How much you want to spend on the furniture is going to decide where you will need to shop. If your budget is tight, a good option would be to check for second hand good quality furniture stores in the local newspapers. You can also find inexpensive used furniture at auctions or garage sales or through friends.
Time of purchase can make a huge difference to your cost. One of the best times to find great deals on furniture is over the holiday seasons and during the summer. At such times consumers are spending more money on holiday items. They are less likely to purchase furniture, which is why the largest sales happen during this time. Also, during the summer months, consumers are spending less time indoors so they are less likely to find a need to purchase furniture so this is also a good time to find a good deal through your local retailer. Large retail stores always have the furniture piece delivered to your home in a few days. But if you are purchasing a used item from a thrift or second-hand store, an auction or a friend, you most likely need to take the item with you when you leave. You need to be prepared for such a situation. Now the question of quality arises. With a used wooden furniture piece, you might find some scratches or discoloration or other type of marks. You need to see what kind of defects you can deal with and cure easily at home. With a good wood cream you can take almost all scratches and water marks out of the wood. You can sand the furniture down to get a good fresh wood look and then do the refinishing yourself. It is an easy process and most DIY enthusiasts would really enjoy the experience. At times display pieces may be slightly damaged or dirty because of all the touching, feeling and handling by so many people. You could ask for a further discount on such pieces and then clean it up yourself at home and save a bunch of money. If there is a bigger defect and you think you can deal with it, ask for a bigger discount.
Make sure the piece is basically stable and well-made. A badly made furniture piece is going to fall apart sooner than later. If the furniture joints are loose and the piece is wobbly, it will not turn out to be a good buy. Make sure there are no gaps in the joints, the screws are all tight, the drawers and cabinets smooth to open and shut and the piece stands sturdy without shaking.
If you are purchasing a piece of furniture that includes a drawer of any type, look for dovetail joints on the backs and the fronts of the drawers. Dovetail joints are similar to your putting your hands together and locking your fingers. Wood that is joined together in this manner is going to last longer and be sturdier in the end. The wood intermingles with the wood from another piece of the drawer for a solid fit that is sturdy. Amish handcrafted furniture always has the best quality long-lasting joints made by the skilled Amish craftsmen.
So just by keeping these few things in mind, you can buy a good piece of wood furniture while saving yourself a bunch of money. Good Luck!
Found Holes In Your Furniture?
In favorable conditions, organic materials including wood and leather are vulnerable to infestation by a variety of insects. A common wooden furniture pest is the powderpost beetle. There are four types of Powderpost beetles in four families. They go through a complete metamorphosis: adults, eggs, larvae and pupae. Though adults do little damage, it is the larvae that do the major damage.
Most furniture manufacturers of repute treat the wood suitably before converting it into furniture. Wood for Amish furniture is treated appropriately by the skilled Amish craftsmen. This is one of the major reasons why Amish Oak furniture and other Amish made furniture lasts for generations. Following are the four kind of powderpost beetles explained in detail:
True Powderpost Beetles:
The adults are very small, flattened and reddish-brown to black in color. Larvae are white, cream colored, shaped with dark brown heads. Larvae create tunnels in the wood and become pupae. As adults they bore out through the wood, pushing a fine powdery dust out. True Powder post beetles breed in dead and dried hardwoods such as the dead branches and limbs of trees. Old items of furniture and wood antiques are especially vulnerable to attack by the beetles. Damage is usually to the starch-rich sapwood of large-pored hardwoods such as ash, hickory, oak, walnut and cherry. Their diet is starch, sugar and protein in the sapwood of hardwoods Wood that is less than 6% moisture content is seldom attacked .The life cycle averages one year to complete. This wood-boring beetle is the most widespread in the United States.
Death-watch Beetles:
This furniture beetle is found mostly in the eastern half of the United States and it infests structural timbers as well. The Death-watch beetle is found throughout the United States. It attacks building timbers in poorly ventilated areas where moisture tends to collect. The name "Death watch" comes from the ticking sound that the adult makes inside infested wood that is audible during a still night. It is a mating call. Wood in structures and furniture infested by these beetles may go unnoticed until the round adult emergence holes appear in the surface. The characteristic pellets found in the frass and the consistency of the frass is useful in determining what species is infesting the wood. Infested wood can be removed and replaced with treated wood. Reducing the wood moisture content to approximately 12% slows the development of the larvae. The surface of unpainted or otherwise unprotected wood can be treated and the galleries injected with disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. This kills exposed larvae and prevents re-infestation when the eggs hatch and immature larvae begin to penetrate the wood. However, the most effective way to eliminate these infestations is to fumigate using sulfur flouride or methyl bromide.
Long-Horned Beetles or Round-Headed Borers:
Most representatives of this family infest and feed on dead or dying trees. However there are many that feed on living trees. A common source for these beetles indoors is from firewood brought indoors. Firewood should be used very soon after it is brought inside. The beetles of this family lay their eggs in cracks or crevices in the bark or on the surface of rough sawn timbers. The larvae are woodborers. Adults vary in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches long, and can be easily distinguished from other beetles by their long, thin antennae that may be longer than the body; hence the adults are called long-horned beetles.
Old House Borers:
The Old House Borer is one of the most common from this family, with its larvae hollowing out galleries in seasoned softwood (pine). It is found in older buildings, but is more frequent in newer buildings, (in houses less than 10 years old). It is well established along the Atlantic Coast, but infestations have been reported as far as Louisiana and Minnesota. The life cycle of the old house borer ranges between three to twelve years, but can be longer if conditions are favorable.
Check your furniture for any infestations in all the nooks and corners including the underside. If any of your wooden furniture is infected, be sure to get the wood treated effectively. If you are buying Amish furniture online, be sure it is from a reputed vendor who pre-treats the wood to avoid any infestations for years to come. A little care can go a long way in avoiding unnecessary trouble.
Most furniture manufacturers of repute treat the wood suitably before converting it into furniture. Wood for Amish furniture is treated appropriately by the skilled Amish craftsmen. This is one of the major reasons why Amish Oak furniture and other Amish made furniture lasts for generations. Following are the four kind of powderpost beetles explained in detail:
True Powderpost Beetles:
The adults are very small, flattened and reddish-brown to black in color. Larvae are white, cream colored, shaped with dark brown heads. Larvae create tunnels in the wood and become pupae. As adults they bore out through the wood, pushing a fine powdery dust out. True Powder post beetles breed in dead and dried hardwoods such as the dead branches and limbs of trees. Old items of furniture and wood antiques are especially vulnerable to attack by the beetles. Damage is usually to the starch-rich sapwood of large-pored hardwoods such as ash, hickory, oak, walnut and cherry. Their diet is starch, sugar and protein in the sapwood of hardwoods Wood that is less than 6% moisture content is seldom attacked .The life cycle averages one year to complete. This wood-boring beetle is the most widespread in the United States.
Death-watch Beetles:
This furniture beetle is found mostly in the eastern half of the United States and it infests structural timbers as well. The Death-watch beetle is found throughout the United States. It attacks building timbers in poorly ventilated areas where moisture tends to collect. The name "Death watch" comes from the ticking sound that the adult makes inside infested wood that is audible during a still night. It is a mating call. Wood in structures and furniture infested by these beetles may go unnoticed until the round adult emergence holes appear in the surface. The characteristic pellets found in the frass and the consistency of the frass is useful in determining what species is infesting the wood. Infested wood can be removed and replaced with treated wood. Reducing the wood moisture content to approximately 12% slows the development of the larvae. The surface of unpainted or otherwise unprotected wood can be treated and the galleries injected with disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. This kills exposed larvae and prevents re-infestation when the eggs hatch and immature larvae begin to penetrate the wood. However, the most effective way to eliminate these infestations is to fumigate using sulfur flouride or methyl bromide.
Long-Horned Beetles or Round-Headed Borers:
Most representatives of this family infest and feed on dead or dying trees. However there are many that feed on living trees. A common source for these beetles indoors is from firewood brought indoors. Firewood should be used very soon after it is brought inside. The beetles of this family lay their eggs in cracks or crevices in the bark or on the surface of rough sawn timbers. The larvae are woodborers. Adults vary in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches long, and can be easily distinguished from other beetles by their long, thin antennae that may be longer than the body; hence the adults are called long-horned beetles.
Old House Borers:
The Old House Borer is one of the most common from this family, with its larvae hollowing out galleries in seasoned softwood (pine). It is found in older buildings, but is more frequent in newer buildings, (in houses less than 10 years old). It is well established along the Atlantic Coast, but infestations have been reported as far as Louisiana and Minnesota. The life cycle of the old house borer ranges between three to twelve years, but can be longer if conditions are favorable.
Check your furniture for any infestations in all the nooks and corners including the underside. If any of your wooden furniture is infected, be sure to get the wood treated effectively. If you are buying Amish furniture online, be sure it is from a reputed vendor who pre-treats the wood to avoid any infestations for years to come. A little care can go a long way in avoiding unnecessary trouble.
From Desk To Dust
Isn’t it extremely unnerving to see your exquisite wooden furniture falling to bits due to an insect infestation? Wood boring beetles and other such insects can cause widespread damage to your furniture literally reducing it to dust. It is important to keep inspecting the pieces of furniture on a regular basis to catch the infestation in its initial stage before way too much damage has been done. Also, there are some preventive measures that should be undertaken. Below is an account of what you can do to protect your precious Amish furniture and other wooden furniture.
Inspection: The first step to management is deciding if there is an active infestation, or if you are seeing old damage. In an active infestation look for borings accumulating in piles near holes or on the floor below, beetles crawling on the wood, or you may hear a ticking sound that is made by some larvae. If there is no active infestation, treatment is not needed.
You should inspect periodically all exposed wood surfaces and probe them for evidence of internal damage. Evidence of attack is more common in attics, crawl spaces, unfinished basements and storage areas. To be certain that the infestation is active, there should be fresh frass the color of newly sawed wood, or live larvae or adults in the wood. . If furniture or other wooden objects appear to have active infestation, they should be isolated immediately by placing in a large sealed plastic bag.
Prevention: Most of the procedures that will prevent attack on wood before it is used are the responsibility of those who harvest, mill or store the wood. However those who use the wood should take precautions to reduce the chances of building an infestation into structures and furniture.
Steps to prevent beetles from infesting wood include the following. Wood should be inspected prior to purchase. Use only proper kiln or air-dried wood. Seal wood surfaces. Always use chemically treated wood (wood preservatives or insecticides). Using good building design such as ventilation, drainage and proper clearance between wood and soil will reduce the moisture content of wood creating less favorable conditions for beetle development. Central heating and cooling systems also speed up the wood drying process.
Control: The following points should help in discouraging powderpost beetle and other infestations. The first thing to do is reduce the moisture content to less than 20%. Rough-cut lumber should be kiln-dried to kill all stages of the beetle. The adult beetles will not normally attack un-infested wood that is sanded and varnished because they cannot find crevices in the wood surface into which they would deposit their eggs. Infested furniture can be fumigated in a fumigation chamber. Surface sprays containing borates will prevent newly hatched larvae from entering the wood. However, this technique is not effective on wood that has been varnished, waxed or otherwise sealed from attack by moisture. If practical, remove infested wood. If not use borate insecticides.
All the abovementioned control and preventive measures are taken by the Amish to give you only superior quality Amish handcrafted furniture. Each piece goes through a lot of processes to make them last for generations. The quality of construction is impeccable. They provide a great furniture experience for years together.
Inspection: The first step to management is deciding if there is an active infestation, or if you are seeing old damage. In an active infestation look for borings accumulating in piles near holes or on the floor below, beetles crawling on the wood, or you may hear a ticking sound that is made by some larvae. If there is no active infestation, treatment is not needed.
You should inspect periodically all exposed wood surfaces and probe them for evidence of internal damage. Evidence of attack is more common in attics, crawl spaces, unfinished basements and storage areas. To be certain that the infestation is active, there should be fresh frass the color of newly sawed wood, or live larvae or adults in the wood. . If furniture or other wooden objects appear to have active infestation, they should be isolated immediately by placing in a large sealed plastic bag.
Prevention: Most of the procedures that will prevent attack on wood before it is used are the responsibility of those who harvest, mill or store the wood. However those who use the wood should take precautions to reduce the chances of building an infestation into structures and furniture.
Steps to prevent beetles from infesting wood include the following. Wood should be inspected prior to purchase. Use only proper kiln or air-dried wood. Seal wood surfaces. Always use chemically treated wood (wood preservatives or insecticides). Using good building design such as ventilation, drainage and proper clearance between wood and soil will reduce the moisture content of wood creating less favorable conditions for beetle development. Central heating and cooling systems also speed up the wood drying process.
Control: The following points should help in discouraging powderpost beetle and other infestations. The first thing to do is reduce the moisture content to less than 20%. Rough-cut lumber should be kiln-dried to kill all stages of the beetle. The adult beetles will not normally attack un-infested wood that is sanded and varnished because they cannot find crevices in the wood surface into which they would deposit their eggs. Infested furniture can be fumigated in a fumigation chamber. Surface sprays containing borates will prevent newly hatched larvae from entering the wood. However, this technique is not effective on wood that has been varnished, waxed or otherwise sealed from attack by moisture. If practical, remove infested wood. If not use borate insecticides.
All the abovementioned control and preventive measures are taken by the Amish to give you only superior quality Amish handcrafted furniture. Each piece goes through a lot of processes to make them last for generations. The quality of construction is impeccable. They provide a great furniture experience for years together.
Finished To Perfection For Your Home
Wonder what converts joined pieces of wood into an exquisite piece of heirloom quality furniture? A lot goes into finishing a wooden furniture piece after it has been put into shape. The smooth finish with the bright shine is achieved after much effort and lots of procedures.
Here is how a wooden furniture piece is finished to perfection. Here is how the Amish Furniture gets its handcrafted heirloom quality.
Sanding:All unfinished furniture is sanded as smooth as possible before any finish is applied. This is the most important step and, to a great degree, determines just how perfect the finished project will be. Sanding is done with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, starting with medium or fine grades, and finishing with very fine. Rubbing is done with the grain to avoid scratches that may show through the finish. There are many different types of sandpaper available, but generally, open coat aluminum oxide paper is preferred for furniture, since it cuts faster and lasts longer. After sanding is completed, all dust is thoroughly removed. This is mostly done with a tack rag dipped into varnish that has been diluted with an equal amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and wrung until almost dry.
Bleaching:This procedure is necessary only if it is desired to lighten the wood's natural color, or to remove undesirable stains. Commercial wood bleach is used wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. The bleach is applied with a brush or sponge and allowed to dry overnight. Then it is sanded lightly with very fine sandpaper to remove raised grain. All dust is then wiped from the wood.
Staining:Stains are used to color the wood to emphasize its grain, to make one type of wood look like another, to create uniform color in a piece which is made up of more than one kind of wood, or to tint patched areas to match the rest of the piece. Most stains are used only over bare, smoothly sanded, clean, dry wood. Of the many types of stain available, the two most popular are penetrating resin stain and pigmented oil or wiping stains. Both these types of stains are available in a wide range of colors. Shades of the same type can be mixed to produce even more color variation. When an oil stain is used, a thin sealer coat is applied to the bare wood first. This gives a more uniform color effect.
Paste Wood Fillers:Open-pore woods, such as walnut, oak and mahogany, require the use of a paste filler if a super-smooth finish is desired. These fillers are available in neutral shades and different colors. The paste filler is brushed onto the clean and dust-free piece with a short, stiff-bristled brush. It is allowed to set until it loses its shine for about 20 to 30 minutes. The excess filler is removed with a rough-textured cloth and the piece is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding further.
Finishing:There are many new, improved varnishes or clear coatings available for furniture finishing. Some are very pale for use on light colored furniture. Others offer resistance to foods and alcohol. Linseed oil finish is time-consuming to apply, but gives the wood a beautiful, mellow lustre. Although it is not highly water-resistant, this finish will withstand hot dishes. Also, it is less likely to show scratches than would a varnish finish. Often, this finish is applied directly to raw wood, but it tends to darken the wood in most cases. Every possible trace of dust is removed before applying the first coat of varnish with a good quality natural-bristle brush. The first coat of varnish is thinned with turpentine, mixing gently with a clean stick so that air bubbles are not formed. Successive coats are then applied as the varnish comes from the can. The varnish is allowed to dry completely for atleast 48 hours. Then it is lightly sanded with the finest grade of sandpaper or steel wool available.
Enameling:Enamel is also a good finish choice for inexpensive unpainted. Because enamels are available in a wide range of glosses — from elegant eggshell to the dramatic wet look — and in a rainbow of colors, almost any effect you want is possible. There are two types of enamel -- oil-based and latex (water-thinned). Usually, the oil-based type produces the best results on furniture. This type is available in both regular brush-on and spray formulas. Spray enamel is especially good for small projects and intricately patterned surfaces.
So after all these finishing procedures you get your Amish handcrafted furniture. All these and more efforts on the part of the artisans give you great looking furniture that lasts for generations.
Here is how a wooden furniture piece is finished to perfection. Here is how the Amish Furniture gets its handcrafted heirloom quality.
Sanding:All unfinished furniture is sanded as smooth as possible before any finish is applied. This is the most important step and, to a great degree, determines just how perfect the finished project will be. Sanding is done with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, starting with medium or fine grades, and finishing with very fine. Rubbing is done with the grain to avoid scratches that may show through the finish. There are many different types of sandpaper available, but generally, open coat aluminum oxide paper is preferred for furniture, since it cuts faster and lasts longer. After sanding is completed, all dust is thoroughly removed. This is mostly done with a tack rag dipped into varnish that has been diluted with an equal amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and wrung until almost dry.
Bleaching:This procedure is necessary only if it is desired to lighten the wood's natural color, or to remove undesirable stains. Commercial wood bleach is used wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. The bleach is applied with a brush or sponge and allowed to dry overnight. Then it is sanded lightly with very fine sandpaper to remove raised grain. All dust is then wiped from the wood.
Staining:Stains are used to color the wood to emphasize its grain, to make one type of wood look like another, to create uniform color in a piece which is made up of more than one kind of wood, or to tint patched areas to match the rest of the piece. Most stains are used only over bare, smoothly sanded, clean, dry wood. Of the many types of stain available, the two most popular are penetrating resin stain and pigmented oil or wiping stains. Both these types of stains are available in a wide range of colors. Shades of the same type can be mixed to produce even more color variation. When an oil stain is used, a thin sealer coat is applied to the bare wood first. This gives a more uniform color effect.
Paste Wood Fillers:Open-pore woods, such as walnut, oak and mahogany, require the use of a paste filler if a super-smooth finish is desired. These fillers are available in neutral shades and different colors. The paste filler is brushed onto the clean and dust-free piece with a short, stiff-bristled brush. It is allowed to set until it loses its shine for about 20 to 30 minutes. The excess filler is removed with a rough-textured cloth and the piece is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding further.
Finishing:There are many new, improved varnishes or clear coatings available for furniture finishing. Some are very pale for use on light colored furniture. Others offer resistance to foods and alcohol. Linseed oil finish is time-consuming to apply, but gives the wood a beautiful, mellow lustre. Although it is not highly water-resistant, this finish will withstand hot dishes. Also, it is less likely to show scratches than would a varnish finish. Often, this finish is applied directly to raw wood, but it tends to darken the wood in most cases. Every possible trace of dust is removed before applying the first coat of varnish with a good quality natural-bristle brush. The first coat of varnish is thinned with turpentine, mixing gently with a clean stick so that air bubbles are not formed. Successive coats are then applied as the varnish comes from the can. The varnish is allowed to dry completely for atleast 48 hours. Then it is lightly sanded with the finest grade of sandpaper or steel wool available.
Enameling:Enamel is also a good finish choice for inexpensive unpainted. Because enamels are available in a wide range of glosses — from elegant eggshell to the dramatic wet look — and in a rainbow of colors, almost any effect you want is possible. There are two types of enamel -- oil-based and latex (water-thinned). Usually, the oil-based type produces the best results on furniture. This type is available in both regular brush-on and spray formulas. Spray enamel is especially good for small projects and intricately patterned surfaces.
So after all these finishing procedures you get your Amish handcrafted furniture. All these and more efforts on the part of the artisans give you great looking furniture that lasts for generations.
Friday, October 13, 2006
Less Known Amish Trivia
With the execution style killings of five Amish schoolgirls, the less known and secluded community has once again come into the media glare. Everyone everywhere is talking about the Amish beliefs, customs, peace-loving nature, ability to forgive and unbelievably simple way of leading life. With so much being written and read about them, there really is nothing new left to say. But after some deep research and digging, I have found some less known trivia about the Amish community.
We always thought that the Amish didn't use technology. The Amish do use disposable diapers, gas grills, skates, and cell phones! They use machines that run on batteries and not on electricity. The Amish can ride in cars and buses but cannot own them.
The Amish are not only into farming. They are adept at woodworking. Amish Furniture, made of solid wood, is very popular throughout the USA. For making wholesale Amish furniture they use modern machinery operated by sometimes ingenious combinations of diesel engines used to power hydraulic and air pumps that replace the electric motor.
Amish Boys and girls begin their search for a spouse when they turn sixteen. The young man asks his girl to marry him, but instead of a diamond ring he gives her china or a clock.
Amish women wear blue at their weddings. Navy blue, sky blue and shades of purple are the most popular colors donning Amish brides. Her wedding outfit becomes her Sunday church attire after she is married. She is also be buried in the same dress when she dies. No one in the bridal party carries flowers. The groom wears a black suit, white shirt, black shoes and stockings, a bow tie, high-topped black shoes, and a black hat with a three and a half inch brim. There is no best man or maid of honor.Wedding dates for the Amish are limited to November and part of December, when the harvest has been completed and severe winter weather has not yet arrived. Most weddings are held on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays are used as days to prepare for or to clean-up after. Saturdays are not used as wedding days to avoid work or clean-up on the following day, Sunday.The couple's first night together is spent at the bride's home because they must get up early the next day to help clean the house. The couple lives at the home of the bride's parents until they can set up their own home the following spring.
Amish women never cut their hair, which they wear in a bun on the back of the head. On their heads they wear a white prayer covering if they are married and a black one if they are single. In earlier times the women wore flat straw hats.
An Amish man does not shave his beard after he becomes married; a long beard is the mark of an adult Amish man. Mustaches are associated with the military, and therefore are forbidden among the Amish people.
Since so many Amish people have the same names, a person is sometimes identified by the name of his parents and grandparents, such as "Amos’s John’s Sammy" or "Jake’s Suzie’s Mary." Sometimes a man even gets a nickname from his wife’s name.
Pipe and cigar smoking is the accepted practice. Cigarettes, however, are viewed as ‘worldly.’ Older men appear to have more ‘right’ to chew or smoke than young men. Modern lighters are used by some. Earlier, it was common for older women to smoke a pipe.
The carriage, or buggy as we non-Amish call it, may not have changed a great deal in design, but now the body of the carriage is mostly made of fiberglass rather than wood.
The Amish use car batteries and other alternative sources to power their machines. The new machines were first used because the hand-operated ones broke, were old and could not be replaced since they were no longer made. To re-charge such batteries some Amish use solar panels, which can recharge a 12-V battery in about seven days.
The Amish have used telephones for years. Before they were common in the home, they used ones in town. Later, as they became more common, a phone booth or phone "shanty" was often built outside, and shared by several neighbors. Many Amish businesses used to rely on answering machines or services, or instruct their patrons to call at a certain hour when they would be at the outdoor phone.
The Amish will never cease to amaze us. Their resilience and inner strength will continue to astound us for years to come.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
We always thought that the Amish didn't use technology. The Amish do use disposable diapers, gas grills, skates, and cell phones! They use machines that run on batteries and not on electricity. The Amish can ride in cars and buses but cannot own them.
The Amish are not only into farming. They are adept at woodworking. Amish Furniture, made of solid wood, is very popular throughout the USA. For making wholesale Amish furniture they use modern machinery operated by sometimes ingenious combinations of diesel engines used to power hydraulic and air pumps that replace the electric motor.
Amish Boys and girls begin their search for a spouse when they turn sixteen. The young man asks his girl to marry him, but instead of a diamond ring he gives her china or a clock.
Amish women wear blue at their weddings. Navy blue, sky blue and shades of purple are the most popular colors donning Amish brides. Her wedding outfit becomes her Sunday church attire after she is married. She is also be buried in the same dress when she dies. No one in the bridal party carries flowers. The groom wears a black suit, white shirt, black shoes and stockings, a bow tie, high-topped black shoes, and a black hat with a three and a half inch brim. There is no best man or maid of honor.Wedding dates for the Amish are limited to November and part of December, when the harvest has been completed and severe winter weather has not yet arrived. Most weddings are held on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays are used as days to prepare for or to clean-up after. Saturdays are not used as wedding days to avoid work or clean-up on the following day, Sunday.The couple's first night together is spent at the bride's home because they must get up early the next day to help clean the house. The couple lives at the home of the bride's parents until they can set up their own home the following spring.
Amish women never cut their hair, which they wear in a bun on the back of the head. On their heads they wear a white prayer covering if they are married and a black one if they are single. In earlier times the women wore flat straw hats.
An Amish man does not shave his beard after he becomes married; a long beard is the mark of an adult Amish man. Mustaches are associated with the military, and therefore are forbidden among the Amish people.
Since so many Amish people have the same names, a person is sometimes identified by the name of his parents and grandparents, such as "Amos’s John’s Sammy" or "Jake’s Suzie’s Mary." Sometimes a man even gets a nickname from his wife’s name.
Pipe and cigar smoking is the accepted practice. Cigarettes, however, are viewed as ‘worldly.’ Older men appear to have more ‘right’ to chew or smoke than young men. Modern lighters are used by some. Earlier, it was common for older women to smoke a pipe.
The carriage, or buggy as we non-Amish call it, may not have changed a great deal in design, but now the body of the carriage is mostly made of fiberglass rather than wood.
The Amish use car batteries and other alternative sources to power their machines. The new machines were first used because the hand-operated ones broke, were old and could not be replaced since they were no longer made. To re-charge such batteries some Amish use solar panels, which can recharge a 12-V battery in about seven days.
The Amish have used telephones for years. Before they were common in the home, they used ones in town. Later, as they became more common, a phone booth or phone "shanty" was often built outside, and shared by several neighbors. Many Amish businesses used to rely on answering machines or services, or instruct their patrons to call at a certain hour when they would be at the outdoor phone.
The Amish will never cease to amaze us. Their resilience and inner strength will continue to astound us for years to come.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Thursday, October 12, 2006
Plywood Or Solid Wood – Be Aware
With the advent of newer options everyday, furniture buying has turned into a real chore. It has become really difficult to pick the best from the good enough. There is metal, glass and the good old wood. Even the types of wood, the qualities and strengths of each, the durability and moisture content can leave anyone terribly confused. In this situation, it is not wise to completely trust the salesperson at the local store. It is important that you do your basic homework before stepping out to buy wooden furniture. What the salesperson calls solid wood might just be plywood or particle board topped with a veneer. There is a big difference between Amish handcrafted furniture and plywood cabinets with oak doors.
Now one would wonder why so many furniture manufacturers use plywood instead of solid wood. Here is why. One reason why veneered panels of plywood are used extensively in furniture making is the cost of plywood versus solid wood. Plywood can be got at a small fraction of the cost of really good solid wood. The more expensive solid woods like cherry can cost as much as 3 to 4 times the price of sheet goods. Manufacturers have now begun calling their cheap plyboards and flakeboards as ‘Furniture Boards’ just to enhance its image.
Another reason is the cost of labor to machine and assemble solid panels versus just cutting a rectangle of plywood or veneering a panel. It is cheaper to work with sheet goods than solid lumber in terms of man hours spent to put the piece together. Many high end tabletops are simply veneered plyboards with a wood edge. Despite the difficulty, true Amish furniture is handcrafted out of solid wood and stained and finished to perfection to give you a piece to last a lifetime.
Another reason is that it is easy to get thousands of plywood sheets all looking identical. Solid wood by its nature would differ slightly in terms of grain, color, shade and moisture content. Cabinet parts, to many people, are more attractive in the form of matched veneer than the random color and grain matching of solids. Some people prefer the color variation of solids and the sometimes wild grain patterns and try to use these differences to make unique looking details.
In the USA, the Federal Trade Commission regulates the furniture industry and its sales pitches, etc. They have ruled on solid wood versus plywood and have indicated that there is a difference. That is, plywood is not solid wood. Specifically, The Federal Trade Commission has accepted for public comment a consent agreement with Taylor Woodcraft, Inc., settling charges that the company violated Section 5 of the FTC Act by deceptively claiming in promotional materials that its household furniture was constructed of solid maple or oak, when a number of its pieces contained some veneered exposed surfaces.
So while plywood may be cheaper and easier to construct, it is no match for solid wood furniture. It is more of an escape route towards convenience and higher profits. Beware of manufacturers who claim to be selling solid wood furniture but use plywood or particleboard for most of the internal parts. Do not feel shy to ask for details from the salesperson before buying a piece. Buy something only if you are absolutely sure. If the salesperson is not forthcoming with genuine information, it is time to check another store.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Now one would wonder why so many furniture manufacturers use plywood instead of solid wood. Here is why. One reason why veneered panels of plywood are used extensively in furniture making is the cost of plywood versus solid wood. Plywood can be got at a small fraction of the cost of really good solid wood. The more expensive solid woods like cherry can cost as much as 3 to 4 times the price of sheet goods. Manufacturers have now begun calling their cheap plyboards and flakeboards as ‘Furniture Boards’ just to enhance its image.
Another reason is the cost of labor to machine and assemble solid panels versus just cutting a rectangle of plywood or veneering a panel. It is cheaper to work with sheet goods than solid lumber in terms of man hours spent to put the piece together. Many high end tabletops are simply veneered plyboards with a wood edge. Despite the difficulty, true Amish furniture is handcrafted out of solid wood and stained and finished to perfection to give you a piece to last a lifetime.
Another reason is that it is easy to get thousands of plywood sheets all looking identical. Solid wood by its nature would differ slightly in terms of grain, color, shade and moisture content. Cabinet parts, to many people, are more attractive in the form of matched veneer than the random color and grain matching of solids. Some people prefer the color variation of solids and the sometimes wild grain patterns and try to use these differences to make unique looking details.
In the USA, the Federal Trade Commission regulates the furniture industry and its sales pitches, etc. They have ruled on solid wood versus plywood and have indicated that there is a difference. That is, plywood is not solid wood. Specifically, The Federal Trade Commission has accepted for public comment a consent agreement with Taylor Woodcraft, Inc., settling charges that the company violated Section 5 of the FTC Act by deceptively claiming in promotional materials that its household furniture was constructed of solid maple or oak, when a number of its pieces contained some veneered exposed surfaces.
So while plywood may be cheaper and easier to construct, it is no match for solid wood furniture. It is more of an escape route towards convenience and higher profits. Beware of manufacturers who claim to be selling solid wood furniture but use plywood or particleboard for most of the internal parts. Do not feel shy to ask for details from the salesperson before buying a piece. Buy something only if you are absolutely sure. If the salesperson is not forthcoming with genuine information, it is time to check another store.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Friday, October 06, 2006
Know Your Softwoods
As a continuation to last weeks article where we discussed hardwoods in detail, here comes the edition on softwoods used in home furnishings. While they need more care and are high maintenance, they are also cheaper. Most furniture manufacturers of repute use hardwoods so that the furniture is long lasting. When you are buying Amish furniture online, it is important to note the kind of wood used, the grain and texture, the polish and whether the wood being used is suitable for the kind of furniture. Being well-informed takes you a long way in making sound buying decisions so that you have an Amish Furniture piece you will cherish for life and not something you regret buying whenever your eyes fall upon it.
If you can afford it, you must go for hardwood furniture. But if budgets are tight, you can choose from amongst the following most commonly used softwoods:
Cedar
Strength: Not very strong.
Color: Yellow, red or purplish. Resembles mahogany.
Texture: Straight grained with even texture.
Uses: The best varieties have a peculiarly pleasant aroma which is offensive to insects; hence it is highly valued for making drawers and chests.
Pine
Strength: Soft. Easy to work and finishes well.
Color: White and yellow. Looks good without staining.
Texture: Straight grain and occasional knots. Fine even texture.
Uses: Doors on primary pieces, joinery, and turning.
Fir
Strength: Fairly strong and resists warping.
Color: Light colored.
Texture: Straight, wide grain and fine texture. Does not finish well.
Uses: Mainly for secondary pieces such as drawers and joinery.
Hemlock
Strength: Moderately strong.
Color: Light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture. Easy to work and finishes well.
Uses: Joinery.
Redwood
Strength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Red.
Texture: Straight grain and even, coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Secondary furniture pieces such as frames, joinery, drawers.
Spruce
Strength: Strong. Easy to work and finish.
Color: White to yellow brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Joinery and frames.
Yew
Strength: Very hard and durable. Difficult to work.
Color: Reddish orange.
Texture: Close grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Cabinetwork, joinery, turning and veneer.
Willow
Strength: Light, soft and weak. Low shock resistance, decay resistance, and steam bending properties. Glues, screw, nails, and finishes satisfactorily.
Color: Pale reddish brown to grayish brown heartwood and whitish sapwood.
Texture: Straight grained, sometimes interlocked with a fine, uniform texture.
Uses: Millwork, packing cases and boxes, artificial limbs, caskets, polo balls, cricket bats, Venetian blinds, veneer and inexpensive furniture.
Now you can make well-informed choices regarding the wood to be used in your dream home. Happy decorating!
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
If you can afford it, you must go for hardwood furniture. But if budgets are tight, you can choose from amongst the following most commonly used softwoods:
Cedar
Strength: Not very strong.
Color: Yellow, red or purplish. Resembles mahogany.
Texture: Straight grained with even texture.
Uses: The best varieties have a peculiarly pleasant aroma which is offensive to insects; hence it is highly valued for making drawers and chests.
Pine
Strength: Soft. Easy to work and finishes well.
Color: White and yellow. Looks good without staining.
Texture: Straight grain and occasional knots. Fine even texture.
Uses: Doors on primary pieces, joinery, and turning.
Fir
Strength: Fairly strong and resists warping.
Color: Light colored.
Texture: Straight, wide grain and fine texture. Does not finish well.
Uses: Mainly for secondary pieces such as drawers and joinery.
Hemlock
Strength: Moderately strong.
Color: Light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture. Easy to work and finishes well.
Uses: Joinery.
Redwood
Strength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Red.
Texture: Straight grain and even, coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Secondary furniture pieces such as frames, joinery, drawers.
Spruce
Strength: Strong. Easy to work and finish.
Color: White to yellow brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Joinery and frames.
Yew
Strength: Very hard and durable. Difficult to work.
Color: Reddish orange.
Texture: Close grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Cabinetwork, joinery, turning and veneer.
Willow
Strength: Light, soft and weak. Low shock resistance, decay resistance, and steam bending properties. Glues, screw, nails, and finishes satisfactorily.
Color: Pale reddish brown to grayish brown heartwood and whitish sapwood.
Texture: Straight grained, sometimes interlocked with a fine, uniform texture.
Uses: Millwork, packing cases and boxes, artificial limbs, caskets, polo balls, cricket bats, Venetian blinds, veneer and inexpensive furniture.
Now you can make well-informed choices regarding the wood to be used in your dream home. Happy decorating!
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Know Your Wood Well
Lost when it comes to wooden furniture? Can’t make out ebony from teak? Can’t decide between Amish Oak Furniture and Antique Mahogany Furniture? Here’s a ready guide to make you an expert at recognizing different woods, decide their finishes and know what they are best suited for. So now you can go ahead and buy your hickory coffee table set or the Amish Furniture Set you’ve been eyeing with complete confidence.
The woods that are used for furniture making fall into three categories: Hardwoods, Softwoods and Composites.Even the term 'hardwood' or 'softwood' is deceptive. Hardwoods aren't necessarily harder, denser material. Softwood trees are evergreen trees while the hardwoods are got from deciduous trees. Hardwoods are considered the highest quality and are the most expensive. Hardwood furniture is least likely to warp or bend. Softwoods are less expensive than hardwoods, but they require extra care and are less durable. Composites are manufactured and not grown and are the cheapest form of wood. Provided it’s affordable, you should always go for hardwood furniture. Here we will look at the properties of some of the common hardwoods:
Ash
Strength: Very strong. Not likely to split.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Secondary pieces in connection with Oak such as bentwood furniture, frames and veneers.
Beech
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Reddish brown with dark brown specks, slightly paler than that of birch.
Texture: Straight grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Bentwood furniture, framework of chairs, tables, and bedsteads, furniture joints etc.
Birch
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Pale yellowish brown color.
Texture: Fine grain and even texture. Works and finishes well.
Uses: It is used in the better kinds of low-priced furniture.
If polished or varnished, it looks like satinwood, but is darker, and by staining can be made to resemble Honduras mahogany.
Chestnut
Strength: Fairly strong. It is light, elastic and very durable.
Color: Grey to white. Looks like white oak.
Texture: Coarse grains and texture.
Uses: Large-scale infestation has depleted the availability.
EbonyStrength: Heavy and strong. High decay resistance but is brittle.
Color: Deep black color.
Texture: Straight or wavy grain with a fine even texture.
Uses: Luxury furniture, carving, musical instrument parts, primary pieces and inlay.
It is very expensive so Pear and other woods dyed black are often substituted for it.
MahoganyStrength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Reddish brown to dark red.
Texture: Interlocked or straight grain, often with a ribbon figure, and a moderately coarse texture. Excellent finishing qualities.
Uses: Tables, chairs, carved pieces, cabinetry, high class joinery, interior trim, boat building, vehicle bodies, paneling, plywood, and decorative veneers.
As its value is so great, it is generally veneered on to some less valuable wood. The heaviest mahogany is generally the best.
MapleStrength: Very strong and hard. Difficult to work with. High resistance to abrasion, indentation, and shock.
Color: White to reddish yellow.
Texture: Straight or bird’s-eye grain and fine texture.
Uses: Furniture, flooring, cutting surfaces, cabinets, decorative woodwork, musical instruments, bowling pins and utensils
OakStrength: Heavy and strong.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Primary pieces which are not carved, joinery, turning and veneer.
RosewoodStrength: Very strong and hard.
Color: Dark, with some curl. Purple to black.
Texture: Straight grain, medium texture and streaked figure.
Uses: Furniture, cabinetry, paneling, mathematical instruments, brush backs, inlay, sculpture, boat construction, hammer heads, and decorative flooring.
SatinwoodStrength: Very hard and strong.
Color: Orange to golden brown.
Texture: Striped or interlocked grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Furniture, cabinets, inlay, joinery and turning.
WalnutStrength: Strong and durable. Less inclined to warp.
Color: Dark brown to purple and black.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Primary pieces, tables, chairs, cabinets, drawers, joinery, turning and veneer.
AlderStrength: Very strong. Easily carved and finished.
Color: Yellow to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Turnery and primary pieces.
CherryStrength: Strong and hard. Easy to work.
Color: Red brown to red.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Primary pieces and turnery.
ElmStrength: Very strong.
Color: Light reddish brown.
Texture: Straight or interlocked grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Furniture frames and secondary pieces.
HickoryStrength: Very hard and strong. Difficult to work with.
Color: Sapwood is yellow white and heartwood is red brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain and coarse texture. Average finishing.
Uses: Bentwood furniture and rustic furniture.
TeakStrength: Moderately strong. Low stiffness and shock resistance. Moderate bending strength.
Color: Yellow brown to dark brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain with coarse, uneven texture and rich figuring.
Uses: Indoor or outdoor furniture, joinery, turning, and veneer.
Yellow PoplarStrength: Soft and light. Easy to work and finish.
Color: Sapwood is white, heartwood is greenish brown.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Carved members, joinery and smaller pieces.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
The woods that are used for furniture making fall into three categories: Hardwoods, Softwoods and Composites.Even the term 'hardwood' or 'softwood' is deceptive. Hardwoods aren't necessarily harder, denser material. Softwood trees are evergreen trees while the hardwoods are got from deciduous trees. Hardwoods are considered the highest quality and are the most expensive. Hardwood furniture is least likely to warp or bend. Softwoods are less expensive than hardwoods, but they require extra care and are less durable. Composites are manufactured and not grown and are the cheapest form of wood. Provided it’s affordable, you should always go for hardwood furniture. Here we will look at the properties of some of the common hardwoods:
Ash
Strength: Very strong. Not likely to split.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Secondary pieces in connection with Oak such as bentwood furniture, frames and veneers.
Beech
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Reddish brown with dark brown specks, slightly paler than that of birch.
Texture: Straight grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Bentwood furniture, framework of chairs, tables, and bedsteads, furniture joints etc.
Birch
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Pale yellowish brown color.
Texture: Fine grain and even texture. Works and finishes well.
Uses: It is used in the better kinds of low-priced furniture.
If polished or varnished, it looks like satinwood, but is darker, and by staining can be made to resemble Honduras mahogany.
Chestnut
Strength: Fairly strong. It is light, elastic and very durable.
Color: Grey to white. Looks like white oak.
Texture: Coarse grains and texture.
Uses: Large-scale infestation has depleted the availability.
EbonyStrength: Heavy and strong. High decay resistance but is brittle.
Color: Deep black color.
Texture: Straight or wavy grain with a fine even texture.
Uses: Luxury furniture, carving, musical instrument parts, primary pieces and inlay.
It is very expensive so Pear and other woods dyed black are often substituted for it.
MahoganyStrength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Reddish brown to dark red.
Texture: Interlocked or straight grain, often with a ribbon figure, and a moderately coarse texture. Excellent finishing qualities.
Uses: Tables, chairs, carved pieces, cabinetry, high class joinery, interior trim, boat building, vehicle bodies, paneling, plywood, and decorative veneers.
As its value is so great, it is generally veneered on to some less valuable wood. The heaviest mahogany is generally the best.
MapleStrength: Very strong and hard. Difficult to work with. High resistance to abrasion, indentation, and shock.
Color: White to reddish yellow.
Texture: Straight or bird’s-eye grain and fine texture.
Uses: Furniture, flooring, cutting surfaces, cabinets, decorative woodwork, musical instruments, bowling pins and utensils
OakStrength: Heavy and strong.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Primary pieces which are not carved, joinery, turning and veneer.
RosewoodStrength: Very strong and hard.
Color: Dark, with some curl. Purple to black.
Texture: Straight grain, medium texture and streaked figure.
Uses: Furniture, cabinetry, paneling, mathematical instruments, brush backs, inlay, sculpture, boat construction, hammer heads, and decorative flooring.
SatinwoodStrength: Very hard and strong.
Color: Orange to golden brown.
Texture: Striped or interlocked grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Furniture, cabinets, inlay, joinery and turning.
WalnutStrength: Strong and durable. Less inclined to warp.
Color: Dark brown to purple and black.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Primary pieces, tables, chairs, cabinets, drawers, joinery, turning and veneer.
AlderStrength: Very strong. Easily carved and finished.
Color: Yellow to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Turnery and primary pieces.
CherryStrength: Strong and hard. Easy to work.
Color: Red brown to red.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Primary pieces and turnery.
ElmStrength: Very strong.
Color: Light reddish brown.
Texture: Straight or interlocked grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Furniture frames and secondary pieces.
HickoryStrength: Very hard and strong. Difficult to work with.
Color: Sapwood is yellow white and heartwood is red brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain and coarse texture. Average finishing.
Uses: Bentwood furniture and rustic furniture.
TeakStrength: Moderately strong. Low stiffness and shock resistance. Moderate bending strength.
Color: Yellow brown to dark brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain with coarse, uneven texture and rich figuring.
Uses: Indoor or outdoor furniture, joinery, turning, and veneer.
Yellow PoplarStrength: Soft and light. Easy to work and finish.
Color: Sapwood is white, heartwood is greenish brown.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Carved members, joinery and smaller pieces.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Keep your Wooden Furniture Stain-Free!
Despite extreme care, accidents with your wooden furniture are bound to occur, especially when there are kids around the house. They invariably tend to spill something on or drag something across your wooden tables or your precious Amish Furniture causing stains and scratches which soon become eyesores.
But there is a lot you can do amend all that. A kind of wooden furniture first aid. Below is a ready guide for the most common stains and problems that may arise with your precious wooden or Amish Handcrafted Furniture.
Wax or Dirt:
To clean wooden furniture of wax or dirt, dampen a clean rag with some mineral spirit and wipe across the wooden surface. Do this until all the dirt is picked up into the rag. To remove the dirt that collects in the grooves and crevices of carved areas use a cotton swab dipped in spirit.
Water Stains:
For recent and mild stains, cover the stain with a clean, thick blotter and press down hard for a few minutes. If that doesn’t work, rub with salad oil, mayonnaise or white toothpaste and leave it on for about 15 minutes. For older or tougher stains leave it for more time, even overnight if required. Then wipe dry with a clean cloth.
Milk or Alcohol:
For milk or alcohol stains rub it with a paste of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone with the grain. Substitute pumice instead of rottenstone for dull finishes. Or rub with a cloth dampened with some ammonia. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
White Marks:
Rub the stain with a clean cloth dipped in a mixture of cigarette ash with salad oil or lemon juice. Once the stain has been removed, wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Light Cigarette Burns:
Rub the stained surface with scratch-concealing polish. If that does not work you could try rubbing it with a paste of linseed oil and rottenstone with the grain until the burn mark is completely gone.
Nail Polish:
Try to blot the spilled nail polish as soon as possible while it is still wet. If it has become dry, rub it with fine steel wool dipped in wax. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Heat Marks:
This may be slightly tricky. Rub gently with dry steel wool soap pad or a cloth dampened with camphorated oil or mineral spirits. Be careful not to cause scratches. Use the finest steel wool available. Wipe the surface clean and wax or polish.
Paint Marks:
If the paint is still wet, it can be removed with water or oil-based paint solvents with mineral spirits. If it has become dry, put some boiled linseed oil on the stain and wait until the paint softens and scrape carefully with a knife or wipe with cloth dampened with boiled linseed oil. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Scratches:
Rub a shoe polish closest in shade into the scratch. This is a very effective and easy solution. You could also use a felt-tip pen of a matching shade to fill into the scratch.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
But there is a lot you can do amend all that. A kind of wooden furniture first aid. Below is a ready guide for the most common stains and problems that may arise with your precious wooden or Amish Handcrafted Furniture.
Wax or Dirt:
To clean wooden furniture of wax or dirt, dampen a clean rag with some mineral spirit and wipe across the wooden surface. Do this until all the dirt is picked up into the rag. To remove the dirt that collects in the grooves and crevices of carved areas use a cotton swab dipped in spirit.
Water Stains:
For recent and mild stains, cover the stain with a clean, thick blotter and press down hard for a few minutes. If that doesn’t work, rub with salad oil, mayonnaise or white toothpaste and leave it on for about 15 minutes. For older or tougher stains leave it for more time, even overnight if required. Then wipe dry with a clean cloth.
Milk or Alcohol:
For milk or alcohol stains rub it with a paste of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone with the grain. Substitute pumice instead of rottenstone for dull finishes. Or rub with a cloth dampened with some ammonia. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
White Marks:
Rub the stain with a clean cloth dipped in a mixture of cigarette ash with salad oil or lemon juice. Once the stain has been removed, wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Light Cigarette Burns:
Rub the stained surface with scratch-concealing polish. If that does not work you could try rubbing it with a paste of linseed oil and rottenstone with the grain until the burn mark is completely gone.
Nail Polish:
Try to blot the spilled nail polish as soon as possible while it is still wet. If it has become dry, rub it with fine steel wool dipped in wax. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Heat Marks:
This may be slightly tricky. Rub gently with dry steel wool soap pad or a cloth dampened with camphorated oil or mineral spirits. Be careful not to cause scratches. Use the finest steel wool available. Wipe the surface clean and wax or polish.
Paint Marks:
If the paint is still wet, it can be removed with water or oil-based paint solvents with mineral spirits. If it has become dry, put some boiled linseed oil on the stain and wait until the paint softens and scrape carefully with a knife or wipe with cloth dampened with boiled linseed oil. Wipe the surface dry and wax or polish.
Scratches:
Rub a shoe polish closest in shade into the scratch. This is a very effective and easy solution. You could also use a felt-tip pen of a matching shade to fill into the scratch.
For more information visit: http://www.amish-furniture-home.com
Wednesday, August 23, 2006
For starters
For starters, I'll just let you know where you can get the best Amish Furniture. Visit the site. I'm sure you'll love it. More on different kinds of furniture later.
